Located only twenty minutes by ferry from Cancun, Isla Mujeres is world's apart in spirit. This funky island is laid back and low-key yet packed with opportunities for exploration, beach lounging and a whole lot in between. 

 

Isla Mujeres (“Island of Women”) was a sacred place to the Maya who erected a temple to the fertility goddess, Ixchel, on the island’s southern tip. Time, as well as the effects of a modern day hurricane, have reduced the temple to only its foundation. Today, the island is a popular tourist destination, yet it doesn’t have the level of commercialism found on the mainland. Many visitors come here on day trips from Cancun or elsewhere on the Yucatan Peninsula, but the charm of the island is really missed on a quick visit. There is plenty to do and the relaxed atmosphere makes it an ideal spot for those who want more than just the beach (although it has that too). Two specific events, however, attract visitors from throughout the world at different times of the year. In July - August migrating whale sharks congregate offshore in large numbers to feast on nutrient rich plankton, and in October hundreds of newly hatched endangered sea turtles are released into the Caribbean. Both spectacular natural phenomenon can only be experienced in a few places in the entire world, and on Isla Mujeres visitors can witness both.

 

We came to the island to swim with whale sharks. This is a truly magical experience and one  that I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to share with my son. You can read more about that here. Part of what makes Isla Mujeres the ideal base for a whale shark swim is that the fish tend to be found relatively close to shore. With early morning departures, that means you can easily swim with whale sharks and still be back onshore by mid-afternoon, leaving plenty of time to pursue other adventures. 

 

The best way to explore the island is by golf cart, and rentals are available pretty much everywhere. There is essentially one ring road, and decent signage and lack of options make it easy to navigate without a map. We were based at Privilege Aluxes, which is located on the popular beach, Playa Norte, and near Centro, where a large majority of the shops and restaurants can be found. The beach at Playa Norte is flat, well-manicured and the waters calm and shallow. This is in marked contract to the southern and eastern side of the island which features towering cliffs and a rocky shore. Despite being only a little over four miles long, the geographic diversity from one end of the island varies significantly.

 

Our first stop was about three miles away along the western road at a turtle farm. Tortugranja is a small government-sponsored hatchery for endangered sea turtles, including the leatherback, hawksbill, loggerhead, and green turtle. The turtles come to Isla Mujeres in the summer to lay their eggs, as much as 100 per animal. Volunteers at the hatchery protect the eggs during the 60-day incubation period and then in October return them to the island’s beaches where the turtles hatch and head out to sea. The spectacle of seeing the mass event of baby sea turtles released draws people from all over the world, and if you are here at this time of year, plan accordingly, because you won’t want to miss this event. 

 

Tortugranja is not an elaborate facility and information about the work being done is rather limited. But, we did enjoy spending about an hour seeing the various turtles, for in addition to providing a safe place for the incubating eggs, the center is also home to turtles that are at various stages of being reintroduced into the wild, as well as home for injured or disabled animals. For kids in particular, this is a great spot to see and hold turtles and other creatures such as sea horses, small sharks, horseshoe crabs, and sea urchins. The entrance fee is very minimal ($2 when we visited) so it’s worth a stop even if this isn’t something that is normally up your alley.

 

Snorkeling the reefs around the crystal clear waters of Isla Mujeres is another draw for visitors. At the southern end of the island Garrafon Natural Reef Park offers the opportunity to snorkel as well as kayak and zipline over the water, among many other activities, at its pricey theme-parkish resort that draws many day-trippers from Cancun. But just down the street is a considerably cheaper and less crowded option, El Garrafon de Castilla. Here you can snorkel directly from a small private beach in a much calmer environment. While the zip-line at Garrafon Park caught my son’s attention, the enormous crowds turned even an excited 11-year old away. At El Garrafon we spent a relaxing couple of hours snorkeling and lounging on the beach without standing on any lines or finding ourselves in the water with throngs of people. There is a modest admission price ($5 when we visited) and snorkel equipment can be rented. Food is available, although we headed across the street to a local place called “The Joint” for tacos, cold cervezas and live music. This funky outdoor bar/restaurant is the perfect spot to wile away a little time and absorb the mellow island-vibe.

 

Just off the coast of Isla Mujeres, is one of the most unique snorkeling opportunities you might ever experience, Musa Isla Mujeres. This underwater museum features 12 ‘galleries’ of sculptures that create an artificial habitat, which attract a multitude of colorful fish and other sea creatures. This innovative project was spearheaded by the local head of Mexico’s Environment and Natural Resources Secretariat as a way to ease the stress on the reef system. Many local operators can arrange either snorkeling or diving trips to Musa. If you are interested in this plan to make arrangements early in your stay to ensure that you have time since it will entail a boat trip. 

 

Not far from El Garrafon de Castilla at the extreme end of the island is Punta Sur. Here you will find a beautiful and dramatic coastline with cliffs towering 60 feet above the sea and waves crashing onto a rocky shoreline. With unobstructed views of the Caribbean, the scenery will literally take your breath away. This is the highest point in the Yucatan and where the ruins of the temple to Ixchel can be found. Set amidst this spectacular landscape is the Punta Sur Sculpture Garden, which features works of art from 23 artists throughout the world, each with their own interpretation of the spirit of the island. Wander the grounds to see the large and varied sculptures, explore the ruins, and hike the numerous paths that take you up, down and around the cliffside for a sweeping vista of the sea and the Yucatan coastline. Punta Sur is wide open and exposed to the intense Mexican sun, so stop at the onsite restaurant and bar for a refreshing drink while you absorb the view from a slightly different perspective and in the comfort of a little shade, before setting off for further explorations. 

 

On the return trip we traveled along the eastern end of the island and followed the rugged coastline north. Small beaches dot the shore and offer spectacular photo opportunities. Currents and large rocks, many which are not visible from the shoreline, make this a hazardous area for swimming. You will find locals frequenting these beaches, and they are worth a stop to dip your toes and just take in the natural beauty, but it is advisable to observe from the shore only.

 

In Mexico the dead are buried above ground in cement tombs that are adorned with photos and items representing the life of the departed. Mexican cemeteries can appear to be a bit of a hodgepodge of structures and artifacts, but they provide a fascinating look into a culture that reveres its ancestors. On our island tour we passed two cemeteries, both of which made for interesting visits. One with a stunning view of the Caribbean on the eastern side of the island near Punta Sur, and one in Centro near Playa Norte. While cemeteries may not be sites you would normally think to visit, they were both intriguing and provided a little more insight into the island community. 

 

In Salinas, find Iglesia Virgen de Guadalupe. Located up steep incline, walk through the doors of this simple church and find an astonishing ocean view. With it’s massive windows facing eastward, the church is perched high above the Caribbean, making the building seem as if it were suspend above the water. The structure itself is elegant in its simplicity and the architecture blends right into the surroundings. It’s hard to imagine being able to focus on a sermon here since the view is so mesmerizing. We just randomly wandered into the church when we stopped in Salinas for ice cream, but I would highly recommend stopping here on any tour of the island. 

 

Back in Centro, visit the numerous shops along the main street, Avenida Hiladgo, or one of the several side streets that make up the small downtown area. In the evening, find numerous dining options as well as venues hosting live music, and a busy town plaza which attracts locals out for a game of basketball, meeting up at one of the several food stalls, or just enjoying the cool evening breezes. 

 

These are only some of the sights and activities we experienced on Isla Mujeres, but there is so much more. For those interested in bird-watching, consider a visit to Isla Contoy. This national park is an important nesting place for sea birds in the Mexican Caribbean where over 150 species of both resident and migratory have been spotted. Fishermen and divers will also find the waters surrounding the island provide excellent opportunities to pursue these activities, and those seeking more local flavor will find plenty to do just spending time poking around the small bars, restaurants, shops, and beaches that dot the island. Whatever your interests, Isla Mujeres has a lot going on and is an easy, safe, and incredibly fun destination to explore.